NEEDLELACE INSTRUCTIONS

Needlelace is derived from the drawn thread form of embroidery and is worked by couching two threads over the pattern lines. These threads are held in place by tiny couching stitches placed very close together and then using these threads as the framework for the lace filling stitches.

There are various types of Needle Lace such as the one shown below, Battenburg Lace, Princess Lace, Russian Tape Lace, Halas Lace - I could go on and on - but they all have one thing in common. They are all worked with a button hole stitch so if you know how to do a buttonhole (or blanket) stitch, then you can work a piece of needle lace. You can read about the origins of needle lace in the article I have written about the History of Lace on another page. So here we go.

MATERIALS

Needles-
Sharps for couching the framework threads in place.
Ballpoints or Crewel for the filling stitches.

Calico-
Enough for two pieces a little larger than the pattern.

Threads-
These can be according to taste and suitable for the design you are
working. Have a variety of threads in different colours and fibres.

Thimble-
Even if you hate wearing thimbles, use one, because it will soon
become your best friend.

Embroidery Scissors.

Tweezers.


For the purpose of these instructions, the thread between two stitches which are next to each other is called a loop while the thread between two stitches which are separated from each other by a larger space, is called a space. The instructions for each stitch refer to the diagram below.

You can either use the flower below as a sampler piece, working a different stitch in each petal, or lay down a grid of rectangles with the framework threads and work a different stitch in each of the rectangles.

PREPARING YOUR PATTERN

Transfer your design on to paper, either by tracing or by photocopying, and then go over the lines of the pattern with a soft pencil or black pen to make sure that the lines can be very clearly seen.

Place the pattern on to either light cardboard or two or three layers of paper and cover the whole with clear plastic contact film.
The pattern is now ready to be tacked to the base of two pieces of calico.
I find that it is best to use the sewing machine to zig zag around the raw edges of the calico as this stops the edges from fraying and interfering with your work.


LAYING THE FRAMEWORK
To lay the cordonnet (or framework) over the pattern lines take a length of thread and fold it in half. With a sharp needle and sewing cotton and commencing with the loop end of the thread, couch the double thread over the lines of the pattern using tiny stitches approximately 2 to 3 mm apart. These stitches will go through the pattern and the calico but all other stitches after the cordonnet has been laid will be on the surface of the pattern only. Where a line and the pattern goes into the center of the design, take one thread over this line and out again back to the other thread (see diagram 1) making sure that where the thread joins up with another two threads, the thread from the first two is wrapped around a thread from the other two so that a firm join is achieved.

Diagram 1



If you run out of a cordonnet thread before you have completed outlining the pattern lines, join in a new one, shown here in red. as outlined in diagram 2.

Diagram 2



If the two threads run out at the same time then join in the new threads as in diagram 3.

Diagram 3


Once all these threads have been laid down and secured, the filling stitches, which follow on below, may then be worked.

The first stitch we will look at is the Single Brussels Stitch which is the basic stitch of all needle lace.

Single Brussels Stitch.

Using a blunt or ballpoint needle, catch the end of the thread under the couching stitches and work a row of buttonhole stitches over the cordonnet. Pass the needle and thread over and under the side cordonnet twice and work into the loops of the previous row back to the starting point.
Repeat.


Double Brussels Stitch.

Work 2 buttonhole stitches, leave a space, repeat to the end of row.
On return row work 2 buttonhole stitches in the spaces of the previous row.
Repeat.

Triple Brussels Stitch.

As above but work 3 stitches, then leave 2 loops and then work 3 stitches again in the spaces of the previous row.



Corded Brussels Stitch.

Work the first row as for the single Brussels Stitch but on the second row, instead of working a buttonhole stitch into each loop of the previous row, take the thread back to the starting point and work another row of buttonhole stitch into the loops of the first row and over the loose thread.

Repeat.


Burano Stitch

Row 1 - Work row of buttonhole stitches over cordonnet.
Row 2 - *Work 2 buttonhole stitches into each of the next 2 loops. Miss 3 loops *.
Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
** Row 3 - *Work 5 buttonhole stitches into the spaces of previous row*.
Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 - *Work 1 buttonhole stitch into each of the 4 loops between group of stitches of previous row*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 5 - *Work 4 buttonhole stitches enclosing both large loops from the previous 2 rows. Repeat from * to the end of the row.**
Repeat from ** to **.


Point d'Espagne

Row 1 - Take needle and thread under the cordonnet and then bring the needle through the loop formed from behind.
Row 2 - Repeat row 1 back across the work to the starting point.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.


Pea Stitch

Row 1 - Work buttonhole stitches across cordonnet.
Row 2 - Work back across the row with 1 buttonhole stitch in each alternate loop.
**Row 3 - Work 2 buttonhole stitches into each space.
Row 4 - Work 1 buttonhole stitch into each space**
Repeat from ** to **


Pea Stitch Variation

Row 1 - Work buttonhole stitches across cordonnet.
Row 2 - *Work 1 buttonhole stitch in each of next 2 loops then miss 2 loops*
Repeat from * to * to the end.
**Row 3 - *Work 1 buttonhole stitch into loop between group of 2 stitches of previous row and 3 buttonhole stitches into large loop of previous row*.
Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 - *Work 1 stitch into each of the loops between the group of 3 stitches in previous row.
Repeat from* to * to the end of the row. **
Repeat from ** to **.




Knotted Stitch

Row 1 - Work buttonhole stitches across cordonnet.
Row 2 - Work buttonhole stitch into first loop between the stitches of the previous row.
Take the thread down and back above itself to form a loop below the buttonhole stitch just worked.
Work a buttonhole, taking the needle to the back of the loop before the buttonhole stitch and through the back of the loop below this stitch.
Repeat to the end.
Repeat row 2.


Pyramid Stitch

Row 1 - Work a row of buttonhole stitches over the cordonnet.
Row 2 - *Work a buttonhole stitch in each of the next four loops, miss 1 loop*
Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 3 - *Work a buttonhole stitch in the 3 loops between the group of 4 stitches in the previous row
Repeat from * to the end of the row. Row 4 - *Work a buttonhole stitch in each of the 2 loops between the group of 3 stitches in the previous row
Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 5 - *Work a buttonhole stitch in the loop between the group of 2 stitches in the previous row
Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 6 - *Work 5 buttonhole stitches in the long loops between the single buttonhole stitch of the previous row
Repeat from * to the end of the row.
These pyramids can be worked in this 6 row size or any size you like, ie. 3,2,1; 4,3,2,1; 5,4,3,2,1, etc.

Tulle Stitch

Row 1 - Form an 'S' with the thread and with the eye of the needle at the top of the 'S'.
The needle passes under the loop on the previous row, over the middle part of the 'S' and under the lower part of the 'S'.
Pull the thread up until the hole formed is roughly square.
Row 2 - As the first row but with the 'S' back to front.



Alencon Stitch

Row 1 - As for the Tulle Stitch.
Row 2 - Whip the thread from back to front through the loops on the previous row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

Stripey Stitch

Row 1 - Work buttonhole stitches across cordonnet to the end.
Row 2 - Work a buttonhole stitch in each loop to the end of the row.
** Row 3 - *Work buttonhole stitch in each of next 2 loops, miss 5 loops*
Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 4 - *Work 2 buttonhole stitches in large loop*.
Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 5 *Work buttonhole stitch in loop between 2 buttonhole stitches on previous row.
Work 6 buttonhole stitches in large loop of previous row*.
Repeat from * to * to the end.
Row 6 As 2nd row**.
Repeat rows from ** to **.


Four Hole Bud

Row 1 - To work a four hole bud, work out the position of the first hole.
Work along the row to this point.
Miss the next loop and continue to the end of the row.
Row 2 - Return the thread to the start of the next row and work buttonhole stitches to the loop before the one missed on the previous row.
Miss this loop and work 2 stitches into the hole.
Miss the next loop and work to the end of the row.
Row 3 - Return the thread to the start of the next row and work across to the missed loop.
Work two stitches into the hole, miss the next loop, work two stitches into the hole and work to the end of the row.
Row 4 - Return the thread to the start of the next row and work across to the missed loop.
Work 2 stitches into the hole and work to the end of the row.


Venetian Picots

These picots are worked by inserting a pin into the backing fabric the length of the required picot away from the cordonnet.
Bring the working thread down around the pin and back over and under the cordonnet and back to where the pin enters the fabric.
The cordonnet should now have three threads leading from it to the pin.
Buttonhole stitch over of the two threads for the first stitch and then buttonhole over all three back down to the cordonnet.
If required, a bead could be positioned at the end of the picot with the needle passing through it on both passes.
This bead would then stop the buttonhole stitches from dropping off the end of the picot.

Embellishments

Couronnes

Using a ring stick, a pencil, a knitting needle or piece of dowelling of the desired
thickness, wind the thread around it for at least 20 or so times according to how fat you wish the couronne to be.
Work buttonhole stitches over the threads with the needle between the threads and the ring stick (or whatever you are using).
Work around until the threads are completely covered with the buttonhole stitches and slip off the stick.
If you find that the couronne is too fat or too thin, don't throw it away - save it, because if may be just the one you want for another project.



These couronnes can also be worked over the central vein of a leaf or to embellish an
edging,(as illustrated below) by laying the ring stick over the cordonnet and, with a
needle, winding as many threads as necessary around both the ring stick and the cordonnet.
Complete as above.




FINISHING YOUR LACE

Once all the filling stitches have been worked on the surface only of the work, lay 2 or 3 or more loose threads over the couched Cordonnet or framework threads - these will provide a smooth base for the closely placed buttonhole stitches worked over the Cordonnet to cover the untidy edges of the filled areas. The number of threads used will determine how much of a sculptured, 3-D look is created. This finishing line of buttonhole stitches is called the cordonnette.
Commence the buttonhole stitching where the edge of a petal disappears under another petal. Any loose threads at the start of the work can then be enclosed inside the cordonnette at the end of it, giving a good strong join.
As in diagram 4,work the petals 1 to 5 in order and finish off with the center of the flower.



Start the cordonnette at A and work through to B beginning with petal 1 through to petal 5 in order, finishing with the centre (6) of the flower and catching the ends of the threads inside the buttonhole stitches as you work the cordonnette.

Please note : work from A to B on each petal, running the thread under the couching stitches to move it from the B of one petal to the A of the next.

When all the buttonhole stitches, or cordonette, have been completed, pull the two pieces of calico apart and cut all the stitches you can see between the layers of the fabric and remove the piece of lace from the pattern. You will find that there are now numerous tiny pieces of loose thread across the back of the lace which will need to be removed - a pair of tweezers is very good for this tedious job.


There you are- your first piece of lace.